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Do you have fallback sauces? Ones you turn to again and again?

This take on the popular mushroom cognac cream sauce is one of mine. Preparing it is second nature to me, and that familiarity brings ease and comfort, making it a go-to when I crave a little luxury on a weeknight.

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You cook sweet onion until its translucent and just starting to turn golden. If you want spice, add a little minced jalapeño or serrano pepper, or a sprinkle of crushed red pepper flakes. Then, slip sliced fresh mushrooms into the pan and cook them, watching the steam rise as they release their moisture and start to brown around the edges. When the mushrooms and onions are where you want them, drop in minced garlic, a splash of cognac and enough cream to get the sauciness you’re after.

The beauty of a sauce like this is that you can throw it together fairly quickly, and then you can mix-and-match to create a meal based on what you have on hand. Sometimes, I eat these creamy mushrooms over noodles, or I might spoon the mixture into a piping hot baked potato.

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Here, I added quick-cooking shrimp, heating them until they curled and turned pink, and then stirred in boiled pasta shells, and a splash of pasta water, for a saucier, heartier dish. The sauce is most commonly served with beef, but I like it with seared or broiled chicken thighs or crisp-fried squares of firm tofu, as well as with rice or quinoa.

As sauces go, this one is actually a bit fussier than ones I make when I’m in my get-dinner-on-the-table frame of mind. During the summer, when our potted basil is flourishing, I’m more likely to throw a fistful of the herb, oil, nuts, garlic and Parmesan into the food processor to make a quick pesto. Or I might whisk together a pantry-friendly sauce from peanut butter with soy sauce, vinegar, honey and a some sriracha.

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I’m always on the lookout for an easy sauce that I can add to my collection. Most often I find them tucked inside other recipes I’ve enjoyed. For example, an easy cilantro sauce I love, which is made by blending water, sugar and pepper flakes together, came from a Coconut Rice With Salmon recipe.

So, keep your eyes peeled as you read through recipes and try new dishes. You might discover a new sauce combination that you can slip into your back pocket for weeknight cooking.

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Storage Notes: Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.

NOTES: In place of brandy, you can use cognac, white rum, white wine or apple or peach juice.

You can substitute 1/4 teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes in place of the fresh chile.

In place of the cream, you can use 1/2 cup whole milk or canned coconut milk.

Get the recipe: Creamy Mushroom and Shrimp Pasta

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